Just a quick note to tell you all that we are well. I am biting at the bit to post photos of this amazing experience, but as I am in someone´s living room right now, it doesn´t seem appropriate to pull out the camera and go through that whole process. Suffice to say, for now, that we have been on a path of one amazing experience unfolding into the next, and then another, and then another.
A few days ago, when we were delivering plastic to some camps, our visit happened to coincide with the arrival of three Chilean helicopters that were delivering supplies. I can´t even begin to describe how beautiful it was to be a part of so many people helping so many people.
Yesterday, we helped an elderly couple here in Buchupureo salvage the wood floor and keepsakes from their adobe home, because they have to tear it down. Turns out their grandsons are two of the six local surfers, who today showed Ryan and LJ some hidden waves in the area. That young man and two friends are currently at our cabin preparing an 'asado' (BBQ).
Today, I went to the farm of a 78-year-old woman to help her remove whatever she could keep from her house, which also will be torn down. I worked with her grand-nieces (20 & 13), which was fun because we spoke spanish together and were able to laugh and play a bit. There are so many details I want to share, but I think I will wait....
We have been invited to eat lunch, which is the big meal of the day, tomorrow at the house of the family we have been helping. They want to share the corn we harvested today, and to thank us. How beautiful!
We have engagements to help lined up for tomorrow and the next day: other people who are trying to move out of houses before tearing them down. It feels so good to have time and energy to help here.
On a different note, we are thinking so much about Kimmy, who is full with baby love, and ready to burst. Stay tuned for an upcoming 'It´s a .....!`We are so excited, and are going to share that joy with our blogfans, too. Stay tuned.
Thank you to everyone who is wanting to contribute to our efforts to help down here. For now, simply understand that your supportive thoughts are fueling our desire to help. You are helping to motivate us, and we appreciate that immensely.
I will try to post a more illustrative entry when I have a slightly more private venue. Until then, know we are thriving in the Epic-Center.
Lots of love,
Jess, Ryan, and LJ
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Sunday, March 7, 2010
Epic-center
Hi everyone,
We have returned to Chillan to gather another load of supplies to take to the coast. Our first trip out there felt successful. We basically just loaded El Furgon with supplies that we anticipated or heard might be useful--water, milk, rice, cooking oil, cleaning supplies, carrots, onions, potatoes, matches, toilet paper, etc.--and drove around the rural areas south of the town of Cobquecura visiting camps and offering what we had.
What we found was that the homes built of brick (home-made brick) have been badly damaged, and families who lived in them have had to evacuate. Many families are tent-camping in fields or yards of family members. Each camp is marked with a flag, and most have signs that say the family name and the number of people staying there. I suppose this is to help people who are bringing aid. We have been impressed by the mobilization of Chileans to help their people. Trucks loaded with supplies are heading out to the coast all the time, but some areas & towns are definitely receiving more than others. This is one reason it felt great to help in outlying rural areas, because the small towns along the coast seem to have received more help.
What is good news is that the area we have been in was not further devastated by the tidal wave which followed the earthquake in other parts of the coast. I haven´t quite figured out the reason for this, but it is clear that the water did not reach the coastal homes. Still, it is/was at the epicenter, so there was a lot of damage from the quake itself.
The people we have encountered have been gracious--always only taking what they need, and pointing the way to another family, in another camp farther down the road who need it more than they do. They have been grateful and respectably proud. Their beauty, strength, and resiliance are evidence that they will persevere. It is inspiring.
The current concern is that there is rain in the forecast and the camps are very exposed to the elements. After this, we will head to the hardware stores looking for plastic sheeting, tarps, nails, etc. to help people build temporary shelters. This is what they are asking for, so we are trying our best to help make it happen.
I am having trouble with the photos right now, so they will have to wait.
We will be in touch next chance we get.
Thank you for all of your thoughts.
Jessica & Ryan
We have returned to Chillan to gather another load of supplies to take to the coast. Our first trip out there felt successful. We basically just loaded El Furgon with supplies that we anticipated or heard might be useful--water, milk, rice, cooking oil, cleaning supplies, carrots, onions, potatoes, matches, toilet paper, etc.--and drove around the rural areas south of the town of Cobquecura visiting camps and offering what we had.
What we found was that the homes built of brick (home-made brick) have been badly damaged, and families who lived in them have had to evacuate. Many families are tent-camping in fields or yards of family members. Each camp is marked with a flag, and most have signs that say the family name and the number of people staying there. I suppose this is to help people who are bringing aid. We have been impressed by the mobilization of Chileans to help their people. Trucks loaded with supplies are heading out to the coast all the time, but some areas & towns are definitely receiving more than others. This is one reason it felt great to help in outlying rural areas, because the small towns along the coast seem to have received more help.
What is good news is that the area we have been in was not further devastated by the tidal wave which followed the earthquake in other parts of the coast. I haven´t quite figured out the reason for this, but it is clear that the water did not reach the coastal homes. Still, it is/was at the epicenter, so there was a lot of damage from the quake itself.
The people we have encountered have been gracious--always only taking what they need, and pointing the way to another family, in another camp farther down the road who need it more than they do. They have been grateful and respectably proud. Their beauty, strength, and resiliance are evidence that they will persevere. It is inspiring.
The current concern is that there is rain in the forecast and the camps are very exposed to the elements. After this, we will head to the hardware stores looking for plastic sheeting, tarps, nails, etc. to help people build temporary shelters. This is what they are asking for, so we are trying our best to help make it happen.
I am having trouble with the photos right now, so they will have to wait.
We will be in touch next chance we get.
Thank you for all of your thoughts.
Jessica & Ryan
Friday, March 5, 2010
New visions
Hi all.
A new plan for the rest of our trip is emerging, and we feel good about it. Together with our friend LJ, we have decided to load El Furgon with supplies and head to a few of the smaller towns along the coast that we became acquainted with on the way down here. We have a few contacts--both with local people we previously met, and with organizations that are working down here--which will be helpful when we get over there. Our intention is to help in whatever way we can.
Right now, we are back in Pucon. We returned here to pick up LJ and get everything squared away. Yesterday we built a rack inside El Furgon, so we will have more space for materials. We have heard the most useful items are water, non-perishable foods, etc., so that is what we will be gathering today. Our goal is to leave Pucon this afternoon, drive north a bit, and then head out to the coast, via Chillan, to Cobquecura and Buchupureo.
We will do our best to keep in touch, but it may be difficult once we are there. Please know that we are being cautious and planful, and that we have chosen to help in these places because they are full of kind-hearted, peaceful people.
We love you and are grateful for your love and support.
Jess & Ryan
A new plan for the rest of our trip is emerging, and we feel good about it. Together with our friend LJ, we have decided to load El Furgon with supplies and head to a few of the smaller towns along the coast that we became acquainted with on the way down here. We have a few contacts--both with local people we previously met, and with organizations that are working down here--which will be helpful when we get over there. Our intention is to help in whatever way we can.
Right now, we are back in Pucon. We returned here to pick up LJ and get everything squared away. Yesterday we built a rack inside El Furgon, so we will have more space for materials. We have heard the most useful items are water, non-perishable foods, etc., so that is what we will be gathering today. Our goal is to leave Pucon this afternoon, drive north a bit, and then head out to the coast, via Chillan, to Cobquecura and Buchupureo.
We will do our best to keep in touch, but it may be difficult once we are there. Please know that we are being cautious and planful, and that we have chosen to help in these places because they are full of kind-hearted, peaceful people.
We love you and are grateful for your love and support.
Jess & Ryan
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
The story continues to unfold
Hi everyone.
Wow. Our blog has suddenly attracted a lot of ¨regulars.¨ We love your comments, and appreciate all of your thoughts.
As I said in the last entry, it would be interesting to see what we find as we continue our travels. What we have found has been interesting, and ¨sobering.¨ We had definitely underestimated the effects of this earthquake. First, let me say that we are completely safe and healthy, even finding ways to enjoy ourselves. Chile, on the other hand, is definitely in a state of disarray. The information we have been gathering is probably similar to what you might be seeing on the news. In the north, there is much damage to infrastructure: roads are broken, the airport is closed, trucking is suspended, people have been displaced from their homes, or worse.
We are currently in Valdivia, which is a university/tourist/river town tucked in back from the ocean approximately 15 km. In these bigger towns in the south there are long lines for gasoline; the supermarkets´stocks are low; some ATMs are working, and many aren´t; the beginning of the school year (usually March 1) has been delayed by a week; some of the summer´s last vacationers are still stuck here because they can´t get back to Santiago and other cities north of here; there is some damage to a few buildings, but the roads are clear and people are generally going about their business. The rural areas seem largely unaffected.
How this all affects us? So far, minimally (I am hesitant to even mention it, compared to the grave effects suffered by others). We are dragging our heels a bit, here in the south, because going north doesn´t seem like a smart choice. We will have to alter our course for the rest of the trip, because the surf towns we were planning to visit next were basically at the epicenter of the quake, and have suffered a lot of damage (especially to their waterfronts). It´s crazy, even as I sit here, Ryan is researching the damage to some of the towns we passed through on our way south, which we were planning to revisit in this next month. What we are finding is that those towns are a mess. Some completely leveled. It looks like, in the next few days, we will be revising our vision for the rest of the trip, based on all this new info.
For obvious reasons, we have no complaints about any of this. We feel lucky for a thousand reasons: we were in the safest imaginable place during the quake; we are mostly self-sufficient in El Furgón; we don´t have a flight to catch, don´t have an immediate schedule. We have many options. The coast, here, is beautiful. The mountains are beautiful. We may even be able to find ways to help... We´ll be looking.
We will, as always, keep you posted on our whereabouts.
With love and deep, deep gratitude,
Jess and Ryan
Wow. Our blog has suddenly attracted a lot of ¨regulars.¨ We love your comments, and appreciate all of your thoughts.
As I said in the last entry, it would be interesting to see what we find as we continue our travels. What we have found has been interesting, and ¨sobering.¨ We had definitely underestimated the effects of this earthquake. First, let me say that we are completely safe and healthy, even finding ways to enjoy ourselves. Chile, on the other hand, is definitely in a state of disarray. The information we have been gathering is probably similar to what you might be seeing on the news. In the north, there is much damage to infrastructure: roads are broken, the airport is closed, trucking is suspended, people have been displaced from their homes, or worse.
We are currently in Valdivia, which is a university/tourist/river town tucked in back from the ocean approximately 15 km. In these bigger towns in the south there are long lines for gasoline; the supermarkets´stocks are low; some ATMs are working, and many aren´t; the beginning of the school year (usually March 1) has been delayed by a week; some of the summer´s last vacationers are still stuck here because they can´t get back to Santiago and other cities north of here; there is some damage to a few buildings, but the roads are clear and people are generally going about their business. The rural areas seem largely unaffected.
How this all affects us? So far, minimally (I am hesitant to even mention it, compared to the grave effects suffered by others). We are dragging our heels a bit, here in the south, because going north doesn´t seem like a smart choice. We will have to alter our course for the rest of the trip, because the surf towns we were planning to visit next were basically at the epicenter of the quake, and have suffered a lot of damage (especially to their waterfronts). It´s crazy, even as I sit here, Ryan is researching the damage to some of the towns we passed through on our way south, which we were planning to revisit in this next month. What we are finding is that those towns are a mess. Some completely leveled. It looks like, in the next few days, we will be revising our vision for the rest of the trip, based on all this new info.
For obvious reasons, we have no complaints about any of this. We feel lucky for a thousand reasons: we were in the safest imaginable place during the quake; we are mostly self-sufficient in El Furgón; we don´t have a flight to catch, don´t have an immediate schedule. We have many options. The coast, here, is beautiful. The mountains are beautiful. We may even be able to find ways to help... We´ll be looking.
We will, as always, keep you posted on our whereabouts.
With love and deep, deep gratitude,
Jess and Ryan
Sunday, February 28, 2010
Shaken, not stirred....
Hi everyone. Thank you for your concern regarding our wellbeing. We are better than good, with stories to tell.
When the earth began it´s trembling, the night before last, we were snuggled into El Furgòn at our friend´s land outside Pucón. When I first awoke, my groggy mind thought, ¨someone is shaking the van!?¨Then I awoke Ryan, thinking, ¨maybe a big bear is shaking the van!?¨Neither of those first two were logical explanations, so we slowly realized that what we were feeling was a real-live earthquake. El Furgón was vigorously shaking and rocking on her suspension.
We began assessing our situation. With our heads raised off our pillows, we were looking out the open back door of the van at the surrounding landscape. The big tree in our view was shaking and bending as if moved by a strong wind, but the trees near us were small and unthreatening. We were near the river, but far enough away and on high enough ground that we felt safe. We were basically parked in the middle of a wide, flat meadow, immediately surrounded by immature trees. We couldn´t have been in a safer place. Realizing this, we were able to actually enjoy and marvel at the movements of the earth´s crust. Holy shit! It was amazing. The ground shook vigorously for a few minutes. That´s a long time. The trees were swaying and bending like they´d been in training for such a challenge. El Furgón heaved and rocked, jolted and swayed. Every bird and dog in the countryside was cawing or barking, and we just felt, watched, listened, awestruck, until it subsided.
This is where we were parked during El Terremoto.
My sketch from the middle of the night, of the experience.
On our way back to town, we were more aware of the smoking volcano than we were before.
Last night we camped on slightly higher ground, with this view of the volcano. It was glowing orange at the top all night long. My attempts to capture it on film failed, but use your imagination. It was AMAZING!
Our plan has been to head farther south, for a while, before working our way back north along the coast. From what we have heard, this is still a really good plan, because most of the damage is north of here. It will be interesting to see what we find when we leave here. We will keep you posted.
When the earth began it´s trembling, the night before last, we were snuggled into El Furgòn at our friend´s land outside Pucón. When I first awoke, my groggy mind thought, ¨someone is shaking the van!?¨Then I awoke Ryan, thinking, ¨maybe a big bear is shaking the van!?¨Neither of those first two were logical explanations, so we slowly realized that what we were feeling was a real-live earthquake. El Furgón was vigorously shaking and rocking on her suspension.
We began assessing our situation. With our heads raised off our pillows, we were looking out the open back door of the van at the surrounding landscape. The big tree in our view was shaking and bending as if moved by a strong wind, but the trees near us were small and unthreatening. We were near the river, but far enough away and on high enough ground that we felt safe. We were basically parked in the middle of a wide, flat meadow, immediately surrounded by immature trees. We couldn´t have been in a safer place. Realizing this, we were able to actually enjoy and marvel at the movements of the earth´s crust. Holy shit! It was amazing. The ground shook vigorously for a few minutes. That´s a long time. The trees were swaying and bending like they´d been in training for such a challenge. El Furgón heaved and rocked, jolted and swayed. Every bird and dog in the countryside was cawing or barking, and we just felt, watched, listened, awestruck, until it subsided.
This is where we were parked during El Terremoto.There were many after-shocks, too. I didn´t fall back to sleep until hours afterward. It was just so interesting!
My sketch from the middle of the night, of the experience.
On our way back to town, we were more aware of the smoking volcano than we were before.The story continued to unfold throughout the day. When we returned to town in the morning, we were curious about what we would find. We didn´t know if it was a big earthquake or a small one. We didn´t know anything except our experience.
Pucón appeared to be unscathed, despite a lack of electricity. Many of the Chileans, however, were pretty rattled. A lot of the people who vacation here come from the region around Concepción, which was the epicenter, from what I understand. We found out that we had experienced a 7.0 earthquake here, and that it was an 8.5 at the center. Almost unbelievable. Most of the businesses stayed closed. People were rapidly leaving town, despite it being Saturday morning. The lines for gas ultimately made us decide to stay in Pucón another day, rather than heading south toward the coast, which had been our plan.
The amazing thing is that we had a wonderful day. Our friends who work on the river didn´t have to work (oddly, it had a ¨snow-day¨vibe). The weather was as clear and warm and calm as it has been (all summer, according to them). By the end of the day, we were referring to it as ¨Earth Day¨because the earth had, once again, stopped us all in our tracks and reminded us to appreciate her beauty, and her power.
Hanging out on Lago Villarica with the kayaking boys. There´s LJ!
As you can see, we are better than good down here in Pucón. The internet is working again. We have a full tank of diesel that we didn´t have to wait in line for.
Last night we camped on slightly higher ground, with this view of the volcano. It was glowing orange at the top all night long. My attempts to capture it on film failed, but use your imagination. It was AMAZING!Our plan has been to head farther south, for a while, before working our way back north along the coast. From what we have heard, this is still a really good plan, because most of the damage is north of here. It will be interesting to see what we find when we leave here. We will keep you posted.
Again, thank you all for your concern. Know that we are doing extremely well, that we are on a great adventure, and that we are making memories that we hope to share with you.
Dancing with the earth,
Jess & Ryan
Jess & Ryan
Friday, February 26, 2010
Cascadas, saltos, cataratas
We´ve spent the last three days exploring the cascading waters around Pucón. Today, we visited a staircasing series of waterfalls and rapids that our friends here like to kayak, and then soaked in gorgeous hot springs next to the Liucura River.
Yesterday, we hiked in a private nature preserve that was created to protect old-growth forest and, in the afternoon, went kayaking in inflatable boats called ¨duckies.¨ Ha!, Go Duckies! The river (Rio Liucura flowing into the Trancura) was breathtakingly beautiful, with views of the snow-capped Volcan Villarica, and heart-quickening rapids: so much FUN! It definitely got my adrenaline going! (Stay tuned for photos that the guide company took. I´ll add them when I get them.)
Generally, we have been enjoying seeing this dynamic landscape from the perspective of our friends here who kayak big rivers, including very tall waterfalls. It is truly a different perspective on nature. What a gift.
Hiking around, outside Pucon
They kayak this!!!
Ryan, LJ, Jared, and Isaac by one of the kayakers´favorite runs called ¨Demshitz¨
Though we have been loving every moment we have spent in Chile´s mountains, we are beginning to think about returning to the coast soon, maybe even tomorrow. Ocean waves are beckoning, and we know podemos subir otra vez (we can climb up again).
We will continue to stay connected with you all.
Lots of love,
Jess and Ryan
Yesterday, we hiked in a private nature preserve that was created to protect old-growth forest and, in the afternoon, went kayaking in inflatable boats called ¨duckies.¨ Ha!, Go Duckies! The river (Rio Liucura flowing into the Trancura) was breathtakingly beautiful, with views of the snow-capped Volcan Villarica, and heart-quickening rapids: so much FUN! It definitely got my adrenaline going! (Stay tuned for photos that the guide company took. I´ll add them when I get them.)Generally, we have been enjoying seeing this dynamic landscape from the perspective of our friends here who kayak big rivers, including very tall waterfalls. It is truly a different perspective on nature. What a gift.
Hiking around, outside Pucon
They kayak this!!!
Ryan, LJ, Jared, and Isaac by one of the kayakers´favorite runs called ¨Demshitz¨Though we have been loving every moment we have spent in Chile´s mountains, we are beginning to think about returning to the coast soon, maybe even tomorrow. Ocean waves are beckoning, and we know podemos subir otra vez (we can climb up again).
We will continue to stay connected with you all.
Lots of love,
Jess and Ryan
Monday, February 22, 2010
Las Montañas
Hi everyone!
The first couple days were magically misty and rainy, which meant we had the camping all to ourselves at this amazing spot on the property of a Swiss lodge.
We hiked through a forest of rare Araucaria trees to the base of Volcan Lonquimay.
After navigating a road that would have been challenging even with 4-wheel drive, we found ourselves camped by this lake, at the foot of Volcan Llaima, which is Chile´s most active volcano (it last erupted in 2008).
Another great hike to the source of the Rio Truful-Truful, where we saw no fewer than 20 waterfalls, a condor, breathtaking volcano views, glacial snowfields, and many other wonders of nature. My legs were soooo sore!!!!
We have been so comfortable camping in the lap of El Furgon that we haven´t felt the desire or need to rent a cabin or hotel room for almost two weeks, until now. It was the dirty laundry that finally pushed us into the comforts of a hotel room. So, we are celebrating Ryan´s 35th birthday here in the small Chilean city of Temuco: indulging in very reliable hot showers, watching the Olympics and movies on the television in our room, exploring local handcrafts & food, and eagerly anticipating clean clothes.
A week ago, we decided to leave Chile´s beautiful coast for the mountains, knowing that we would return to the beach later in the trip. What we have found in the mountains has definitely exceeded our expectations. The pictures & captions tell the story best.
The first couple days were magically misty and rainy, which meant we had the camping all to ourselves at this amazing spot on the property of a Swiss lodge.
We hiked through a forest of rare Araucaria trees to the base of Volcan Lonquimay.
After navigating a road that would have been challenging even with 4-wheel drive, we found ourselves camped by this lake, at the foot of Volcan Llaima, which is Chile´s most active volcano (it last erupted in 2008).
Another great hike to the source of the Rio Truful-Truful, where we saw no fewer than 20 waterfalls, a condor, breathtaking volcano views, glacial snowfields, and many other wonders of nature. My legs were soooo sore!!!!
Our next stop is Pucon, to hook up with our friend LJ and check out the ¨Lake Tahoe of Chile.¨We´ll keep you in the loop. Please continue to keep us in your loop, too. We love to hear your updates!
Love,
Jess and Ryan
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