Marina time (retrospective entry)

Our final days in Mexico were spent at the La Cruz marina, addressing boat repairs, cleaning up, and packing. During this time, while Ryan was getting creative with boat maintenance, I tried to get creative with the camera.

These are the building-blocks of the marina's breakwaters, with Banderas Bay in the background.

Self-portrait with palm shadows.

On the morning we left La Cruz, we had the boat hauled out of the water for some repairs to the keel. It was a very new, very strange experience, especially because we were on the boat when the slings pulled it out. Brainstorm is currently in the boatyard getting gussied up for her next journey.

The swell never quit! This is the view, from the airplane, of our recent-favorite surf spot, Punta de Mita (in the top, right of the photo, the peninsula extending out), with swell still curling around the point. We seriously considered extending our time in Mexico, just to surf for a few more days, but finally decided to make our way to our next destination.

We've said it before, and we'll say it again: we are so grateful for our time in Mexico, for the incredible conditions mother nature gave us, for the seaworthy Brainstorm, for the time with friends and family, and for a thousand other gifts that we have experienced.

Counting our blessings,

Jessica & Ryan

Eventful final days in Mexico

Wow! My head is spinning a bit, as I begin writing this. We have had so much fun and adventure in the last week and a half. Some of the ¨adventures¨ have included challenges, too, which is what makes events memorable, right? s you know, we were joined by our Oregonian friends Alex & Carrie and Mike & Angie for this last hoorah aboard Brainstorm. The trip was truly awesome all-around. As Ryan has repeatedly said during our time on Brainstorm, sailing is usually either a completely amazing experience or a entirely uncomfortable experience, without a lot in between.

We spent the first few days experiencing the best of sailing--call it paradise, heaven on earth, ¨living the dream¨--which for us included another swell that offered us great surfing, beautiful clear water for swimming, lots of sunshine, relaxing moments reading and catching up with friends, etc. Did I mention the waves?!

That´s Ryan!!!

On Wednesday we enjoyed a remote beach north of Chacala, which was a new spot for us, and a pristine sunset sail back to our anchorage in Chacala.

What we didn´t know at the time of these photos, is that we were about to experience the flip side of sailing, too. (Only now do I notice the dark clouds looming in the background of those moments in paradise.) We returned to Chacala to find that our stern anchor had disappeared (We returned to Chacala yesterday, by bus, to dive for it, but didn´t find it). In usual conditions this would mean experiencing a night of rolling sideways to the waves, which is a bit uncomfortable for sleeping. Unfortunately for us, a strong westerly-turned-southerly wind had developed throughout the afternoon, which is extremely unusual for that anchorage. This, paired with the arrival of a very large swell from the west meant that we were held sideways to unusually choppy seas for the entire night. If you have never been on a boat that is rolling sideways in 6-8 foot seas, imagine trying to lay in bed and having to tense every muscle just to keep from rolling out of it. It is extremely loud, as everything in the boat is clanking with each pitch, etc. So, we were awake when the first drops of rain began to fall, awake for each flash of lightning, awake all night long waiting for morning. At first light, when Ryan and I were able to assess the situation more clearly, we realized that the waters were too rough to go looking for the anchor and that we basically needed to get the heck out of there. So, we rapidly packed up the dinghy and pulled our main anchor. From there we began a day of sailing in what I think of as ¨White Squall.¨ (I could only take photos as we were coming out of it, because it was too wet, before that.)

This is what the cabin looked like, from the roughness of the waves! Ransacked!

The photos only barely capture it. Suffice to say, we had truly gone from the type of sailing that is extremely pleasant to the type of sailing that is extremely uncomfortable. In seas that rough, it is nearly impossible to stay in the cabin because it makes most people sick, so we were all huddled in the cockpit. It rained a lot. The wind was gusting up to 35 knots, which is almost unheard of at this time of year (El Niño at work). We were sailing into the wind, which meant that every few waves would crash clear over the bow of the boat, and into the cockpit. We were soaked. Know that, as I describe this experience, I am not complaining, only trying to describe it. It could have been so much worse (it wasn´t very cold, for example). As it was, our sleep-deprived crew endured approximately 6 hours of extreme discomfort before we made the corner at Punta Mita, into Banderas Bay. When we saw that the anchorage at Mita was a bit rough, we decided to head all the way back to the Marina to assure ourselves a good night´s sleep.

By the next morning, we had pulled ourselves, and the boat, together and we headed back to Punta Mita for a final day of surfing and sunning in Paradise. What is certain is that Angie, Mike, Carrie, and Alex had a memorable vacation. They are troopers!!! Ryan and I, too, will remember the Squall of 2010, in addition to many moments in Paradise.

Sidenote: we later found out that there was a waterspout in Banderas Bay, very near the marina, on the stormy day described above. If you want to see some cool photos of it, go to this address. http://www.banderasnews.com/1001/nb-strangeweather.htm

Gracias a Brainstorm

As we look toward our departure from Brainstorm, I feel compelled to tell you a bit more about the vessel that has been our floating home.

She is a 40-foot Catalina sloop, made in 1995. She has a 5-foot, lead, winged keel which weighs 8000 lbs. All that weight is what keeps us upright, even in tumultuous seas and high winds. In total, Brainstorm weighs 32,000 lbs., which is 16 tons! Tomorrow, she will get hauled out of the water for repairs by a huge lift. Pretty amazing.


Her mast is 60 feet tall, and she is 13.5 feet at the beam (across at the widest point). She has two steering wheels, which is called ¨twin helm steering.¨ She has 1000 square feet of sail: 600 feet in the jib and 400 in the main. The anchor has 300 feet of chain to hold us firmly to the sea floor. She makes electricity from the sun, using 3 solar panels, and the wind, using a wind-generator; makes fresh water from the sea, using a desalinization system; charts our coarse with GPS; and propels us with her 42 horsepower engine, when needed (positive side-effect = hot water for showers). On our last 9-day trip we only used $50 of diesel fuel, which seems average.

She is the perfect vessel for whale, dolphin, turtle, and shoreline-watching. She cools our beer and heats our showers. She is a cradle that rocks us to sleep at night, a superb location for romantic dining, and transport to hidden coves and remote surf.

The best moments are those when the sails are full, the motor is off, and there is nowhere we have to be. For the last two months, we have made a home aboard this beautiful sailboat and she has proven to be sturdy and sleek. We will remember her hospitality for a long time. Cheers to Brainstorm and the ingenuity of the humans who create seafaring vessels!

Mini-dream come true

Hi everyone,

Today I had a very cool experience, one that I had been dreaming about for weeks. Traveling from place to place over the past two months, we have been highly aware of our role as visitors. We do our best to connect with people in very simple, very human ways--eye contact, conversation, smiles, etc.--and generally feel that we have had quality interactions with the local people along our way. Still, I often feel that I gain more than I am able to give. So, for the past month, I have been dreaming about going into the pueblitos, setting up an art table, and inviting people to paint or draw with me. Today the timing felt right.

We are in La Cruz, the town that has served as our hub on the Mexican mainland. The marina in La Cruz is fairly new, so the town still has a somewhat pre-tourism feel to it (at least compared to surrounding towns such as Puerto Vallarta and Punta de Mita). We have come to appreciate the local markets--one for fresh tortillas, one for meat, one for fish, another for veggies, etc.--the kind people, the bus system, and other trappings of what I'd call "authentic" Mexico.

I set up the art table in a centrally-located park, using two plastic tables and some chairs borrowed from the taco stand across the street. After hanging my sign (a combination of bubble-letters and my best Spanish), setting out the paints, and sharpening all the colored pencils, I only had to sit alone and idle for approximately 5 minutes before an adventurous family gathered around and began to paint. Awesome: a local couple was the great-aunt and uncle, with their family visiting from Tequila, Jalisco (not joking!), and two nephews who live in L.A. All told, about 12 people. They broke the ice. After that, I had a steady stream of ninos (kids), for the next two hours. It was AWESOME!!!! Ryan and Laura were my support crew; brought me ice cream, took pictures, helped clean up. As you can tell, I couldn't be happier about how it went. Perhaps we'll take this act "on the road" for the rest of the trip. Stay tuned.

Other news, before I sign off...Tomorrow we are parting ways with Laura and Jim. We have had such a great time with them on their beautiful boat. As many of you know, Laura and Jim's abundant love and willingness to have fun make them a joy to be around. We couldn't be more grateful for our time together.

Can you feel the love?!

On the flip side, we will be joined, for this final leg of our sailing adventure, by our friends Mike & Angie and Alex & Carrie. There is another northwest swell on the way and our favorite Mexican surfspots are only a few hours of sailing away, so we know we have good times ahead.

We love you all and want to remind you that, yes, the days are getting longer.

Peace,
Jess and Ryan

Bellenas mejores

Because seeing whales is one of the most amazing things that happens down here and, because after posting whale photos a couple weeks ago I realized that I uploaded the wrong photos, I have decided to dedicate another entry to these breathtaking, oversized mammals. I hope you will notice that these photos are more zoomed-in, and show our slowmoving and graceful friends a bit better than the previous ones. Also, Jim took video of one that was very close to the boat, and the sounds it made were otherworldly, so I thought I'd try to post a video too. Here goes: revised whale entry.

I think they're mating!

Look how much of the water is disturbed by their mass. And, wow! That's a dolphin in the foreground, too!

We hope you have enjoyed seeing nature's splendor through our lens. We know it barely does it justice, but we try.

Lots of love to you all,

Jess and Ryan

Feliz Aňo Nuevo!

We began this leg of our journey with an overnight sail from the Marina La Cruz in Banderas Bay to Chemela (approximately 80 miles south). I haven't said enough about overnight sailing, so what I will say here is that it is a truly awesome experience to be riding on the surface of a dark ocean with brilliant stars overhead; intimately connected to moonrise and moonset; anticipating sunrise, then watching its unfolding; the muffled sounds of birds, water, sails; the vast space all around; the opportunity to spend the wee hours of the morning in the presence of Jim Lambert.... I could go on forever about these rare moments.

Long-awaited sunrise after an overnight sail

Our trip south took a few days after that initial push. We couldn't see much past Kimmy's enlarged tummy (ha!) and her and Randy's excitement about becoming parents. They are doing great, as you can see.

We arrived at our destination, Barra Navidad, on New Year's Eve, where Lindsay and Beto (Ryan's cousin and her husband, who is a real-live Mexican:) joined us all the way from Queretero, where they live. Laura and Jim had amazing foresight when they planned for all of us to be together in Barra. The marina sits at the base of a beautiful hotel/resort, and across a lagoon from a funky little Mexican beach town, which even has a surfing wave (I got to give it a try on New Year's Day!). We have definitely been enjoying the best of both worlds here!

Having Lindsey and Beto with us has been great, not only because they are real-live Mexicans, but also because they excel in storytelling and laughter. They have helped us immensely with our spanish, mostly by being patient with us, and also helped us find "the real Mexico," as Beto described it, on New Year's eve. In lounge chairs by a still couryard pool, we listened and watched as two couples gracefully danced, first Merengue, then Tango, to the rich music of one man's guitar. It was so magical that Ryan kept asking, "Is this real?", and then he got stung by a bee, as if the bee was saying, "Yes! Duh!" In keeping with tradition, each of us made 12 wishes, or resolutions, for the new year and then, as the clock struck 12, we ate 12 grapes, one at a time, while inwardly noting each of our goals. After everyone had stuffed their faces full of grapes, they sang the Mexican birthday song, which makes sense, if you think about it. What a world of possibility has opened to us for this new year: 12 whole wishes!!!

We hope that all of you, wherever you are, have also put your wishes and resolutions out there for this new year, and that they will be fulfilled. Dream big!!!

With love from Brainstorm,
Jess, Ryan, and, indirectly but wholeheartedly, Laura, Jim, Kimmy, Randy, Lindsey, and Beto

Tios!

Hi everyone,

Well, here we are in Marina La Cruz, preparing to depart for a southward sail toward Barra Navidad. Kimmy, Randy, and "B.K." (baby Kenyon, in the womb) have joined us and, needless to say, we are so excited to be with them!

The other great news we have to report is that we found out, on Christmas Day, that my step-brother Pete and his wife Suzy gave birth to a healthy baby boy on Christmas eve. We are soooo thrilled to officially be Tia Yessica and Tio Ryan! None of the photos in our repetoire can even come close to these, which I lifted from Blake's official website. We hope you love him as much as we do!

Cheers to Pete and Suzy, and cheers to all of you.

We love you,

Jess and Ryan